Saturday 4 May 2013

24 hours in Marseille: An unplanned weekend


I was supposed to be in Courchevel for the last weekend of ski season but due to my best friend/Holiday Rep Monsieur X’s winter season finishing two weeks early I was a girl with a flight ticket but nowhere to go. Oui! The easiest way to get to Marseille from the UK is direct flights from most London airports with Air France, Ryanair, Easyjet and BA. Moi - on the other hand arrived via Geneva as the train ticket return from Marseille (£145ish) was still cheaper than booking new flights and you can’t moan about a train ride though the beautiful Provence countryside. 

 
My detour to Marseille took me 7 hours via Culoz yes I never heard of the place either (it looked like a very nice field) and Lyon arriving at Marseille St Charles Train Station very tired, hungry and happy to be in the 2013’s European Capital of Culture. The last time I visited Marseille was 7 years ago and I felt the city was much cleaner now than back in 2005, this was at 10pm and I was proved right the next morning. We stayed one night  for 70€ at the Hotel Lutetia, 38 Allée Léon Gambetta, which is a  few minutes’ walk from the train station. A small room modern and clean, the shower was big enough for a small child and so was the lift – it could only take two people standing side by side without bags. But the bed was so comfortable and we couldn’t hear much (if any) city centre noise from outside just what I needed after my detour.
 
Next day after walking down the narrow and sometimes steep side streets we found another hotel for the night in the business district Le Joliette – The B&B La Joliette, 52 rue de Forbin, 13002, right next to the Metro Station and a weekend rate of 58€ (without breakfast) – a bigger bedroom and a much bigger shower – luxury for us adult sized humans.

After dumping our bags and a layer of clothing (it was so hot) we brought a Metro/tram 24 hours pass for 5€ and headed to the free Funny Zoo Park at the Palais Longchamp Park at the Cinq Avenue Longchamp Metro Stop. This park is full of bright coloured animal (and random dinosaurs!) statues ‘living in their original cages’. 





Funny Zoo 'animals'
 
 
Then back into the City Centre and the Vieux Port where we saw more of these animals scattered around the city for its Capital of Culture year. After window shopping and taking more photos of the ‘funny animals’ we stopped off at the Marseille Football Club bar - L'OM Cafe in the port.  For a Marseille Football Fan like myself I would have preferred to watch a match (I have caught the travel football bug after my Paris trip) but as they were playing away a trip to the club shop and bar was enough for me…for this trip.
 




Vieux Port
 
A few more drinks around the port before we took the Petit Train tour to the Church on the top of the hill - Notre-Dame de la Garde, we past the island Château d'If -  famous for being one of the settings of Alexandre Dumas novel Count of Monte Cristo Island (another film connection ticked).  The tour lasted about 1 ½ hour and this included 20 minutes stop at the Notre Dame de la Garde to take loads of photo of the views of Marseille all for only 7€.
Notre Dame de la Garde

View from Notre Dame de la Garde - middle island is Château d'If

Heading back down the hill was very bumpy and steep and once we reached the end of our tour it was back to bars to watch the sun go down over the port drinking happy hour cocktails at the very busy Exit Bar on the corner of Quai Rive Neuve and Rue Fort Notre Dame before dinner at the nearby restaurant - Restaurant Le 13, 13 Quai Rive Neuve, Vieux Port, 13007 Marseille for Salmon and Pasta for 13€ and a hell of lot of wine.
I wish we could have spent another few days in Marseille (we went to Salon-De-Provence for an evening to recover) to see some of the other exhibitions and events going on, however this weekend was unplanned and it feels to me these sort of weekends are the best and this one was.
My Top Tip for visiting Marseille – The perfect hangover cure after the day and night before – Steak and Chips at the Brasserie De Joliette, 7 Place de la Joliette for 10€. The portions were massive!


Useful Websites

http://www.restaurantle13marseille.com/

http://marseillecityofculture.eu/capital-of-culture.html

http://www.mp2013.fr/?lang=en
 

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